I enjoy browsing with Safari, Apple’s built-in web browser for all their Mac computers. Over the years it has become increasingly powerful, and Apple is always updating and improving it. Urdu logo maker software, free download.
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However, we’ve all experienced the pinwheel of death at some point. One minute you’re opening a new tab, and the next you’re staring a bright beach ball while hopelessly clicking the mouse or tapping on the trackpad.
I’ve had to force quit Safari on multiple occasions. To be honest, it’s very frustrating to see Safari keeps freezing even crashing on my Mac, and force quitting often seems the last choice I could make.
So why does Safari keep crashing or freezing up? We’ll quickly explore the possible reasons, before getting to the fix solutions.
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Possible Reasons
It can be hard to know exactly what is making Safari freeze or crash unless you have an Apple geek analyze the crash reports — which is close to impossible for many of us. But here are a few common reasons for the delay:
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- You tried to do too many things at once, such as use an excessive amount of windows or tabs.
- The site you were browsing overload Safari with its plugin use or processing demands.
- Safari hasn’t been cleaned in a while and is working with a full cache of history, downloads, and cookies.
- An outdated extension or plugin is creating problems.
- It’s actually your Mac is running slow, either due to having too many other applications running or the condition of your Mac machine.
- Your mac is running a very older version of Safari.
How to Fix Safari When It Freezes or Crashes?
Please note that the step-by-step instructions below are for general diagnosis and fixing only. By no means you should follow the exact step number, it’s totally okay to jump to the right step that best fits your situation.
Step 1: Give it a minute. Sometimes the hanging symbol is actually just that and will go away after a minute or so. You can close background applications to assist in this process, but if you don’t like to wait, then you can skip to the next step.
Step 2: Close tabs. Pay attention to those web pages that have heavy flash/video ads, they are often the “culprits” of slow Safari issues and tend to tax your Mac performance as well. The typical symptom is that your computer heats up quick with the fan running wild.
Step 3: Force quit Safari by CONTROL + MOUSE clicking the Safari icon in the dock, and then choosing “QUIT” or “FORCE QUIT”.
If your entire computer is frozen, and not just Safari, you’ll need to hold the power button for three seconds until the screen goes dark. Then press the power button again to restart your computer.
Step 4: Check if your Safari is up to date by reopening the app. Then go to the top right and choose SAFARI > ABOUT.
This will open a new window with your Safari version listed. If it’s not the most current version (like in the image below), check the Mac App Store for a Safari update, which is frequently bundled with all the macOS update (but can be executed alone). As of this writing, the latest Safari version is 12.0.
Step 5 Arma 3 zombie dogs. : Go to HISTORY and then choose “Clear History and Website Data”. The cache is a location on your Mac that Safari stores information in to load certain resources more quickly. However, this information is supposed to be temporary and might be bogging you down.
This will open the following pop-up:
You should clear the most amount of history/cache you are comfortable with, and choose “All History” for best results. This will wipe the cache and help Safari avoid random crashes or freezings in the future. You should clear your cache and history regularly to keep Safari in its best shape.
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Step 6: Clear up lagging extensions by going to SAFARI > PREFERENCES, and then navigating to the “Extensions” tab.
Inside this tab, you will see a list of third-party extensions you have enabled or installed in Safari. You should use the “uninstall” button to remove any extensions you don’t use and uncheck the “enable” box for any plugins that you use only on occasions.
If you suspect one specific extension as the root of the problem, you can try uninstalling just that one and running a comparison. It’s also a good habit to make sure any remaining extensions are up to date and using their latest patches.
Step 7: Safari might not be the culprit of your freezing problems. If you are using an older Mac machine (e.g. 2012 or earlier model), especially if the startup disk is running out of disk space, the Safari issues you face are probably related to the poor performance of your Mac overall.
To fix this, the easiest way is to use CleanMyMac X to run a quick scan of your Mac and clear out those clutters and system junk, you should use the app to disable those login items are could lag your mac on startup.
Then, if it turns out your Mac hardware is kind of dated, for example, the RAM is limited or the hard disk drive is just slow, consider installing extra RAM to increase your Mac’s capability to handle application requests, or replace the HDD with an SSD (solid-state drive). These solutions that will help make Safari (and other apps) run more smoothly on your Mac.
Other Tips
Browsing habits can be an easy fix to prevent future Safari performance issues. It’s good practice that you should avoid leaving tabs you aren’t using open and try to stick to one window when possible. Also, if you’re on an older Mac (especially MacBook Airs) with less advanced hardware configuration, reduce the amount of multitasking you are doing in order to lighten the processor’s load.
Cracked naruto storm 4 1.4 download torrent. Meanwhile, beware that if Safari seems to be crashing when you visit certain websites. Some web pages overload Safari with images, pop-ups, videos, and ads, and avoiding these pages will save you some trouble in the future.
That’s all that we wanted to share with you today. We hope these tips have helped you solve any freezes you encounter while using Safari. If you’re still having issues even after trying multiple methods, a different browser might be worth looking into. Browsers such as Google Chrome offers great performance and a set of tools similar to those provided by Apple Safari.
Additionally, you can look for known bugs that many other users have experienced. For example, the early 2015 13″ MacBook Pro was subject to an error that frequently caused the entire machine to freeze, and was described by dozens of users in the MacRumors forum.
Communities such as MacRumors and Apple Communities can be a great resource for finding more obscure solutions to your Safari issues.
Xbench 3.0 download. Have you experienced any unusual Safari freezing or crashing situation? Tell us what you did to fix it by leaving a comment below.
If you are willing to get up early or stay up super late, Milky Way season is back in North America! Above is a shot I made on February 14th, 2016, in Sedona, Arizona. This image was taken at 5:45 AM, just prior to sunrise. Something I tried for the first time with this photo is taking 10 consecutive shots of the sky at a higher ISO (5000) and shorter shutter speed (15s), and then stacking the photos, which gives you awesome pinpoint stars with minimal noise.
Here’s a walkthrough of how I made the shot.
Ever since I moved to Flagstaff, I have always wanted to get a shot of the Milky Way rising over Cathedral Rock in Sedona, AZ from this particular location. In order to determine when the galactic center of the Milky Way would rise over Cathedral Rock from this particular vantage point, I used the app PhotoPills on my iPhone. This told me the exact time and location this would happen.
Ever since I moved to Flagstaff, I have always wanted to get a shot of the Milky Way rising over Cathedral Rock in Sedona, AZ from this particular location. In order to determine when the galactic center of the Milky Way would rise over Cathedral Rock from this particular vantage point, I used the app PhotoPills on my iPhone. This told me the exact time and location this would happen.
The Milky Way was going to rise above the horizon a little after 4 am local time, so a friend and I arrived at the location around 3am. This would give us enough time to find the composition we wanted and take some shots of the foreground, using light painting to illuminate everything since the moon set the previous evening.
Shooting the Foreground
Here are the two unedited shots I used for the foreground, each 30 seconds at ISO1600 and f/2.8. In hindsight, I should have taken more in order to get more of the cactus in focus.
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To “paint” the foreground, I stood about 30 feet to camera-right using a cheap headlamp from Wal-Mart. I was about even with the camera and then using trial and error I found the right speed to shine the light across the foreground to get the desired look.
Shooting the Sky
For the sky, I tried a new technique that turned out really well. I took ten consecutive shots (around 5:45 AM local time) of the sky with a high ISO (5000) and shorter exposure (15 seconds), each at f/2.8. You can do a much higher ISO if you want and an even shorter exposure to get even more pinpoint stars. I previously always used a 25 to 30 second exposure with a lower ISO, but even at 15mm the stars would still streak just enough to bug me. Here is what one of the ten shots looked like straight-out-of-camera.
Stacking the Sky Images
I downloaded Starry Landscape Stacker for Mac ($19.99) and then loaded my ten 16-bit .tif images into the program. They have a detailed instructional video on their website that teaches you how to use the program. It is pretty straightforward.
Once the ten images loaded (depending on the speed of you computer, it could take a few minutes), this is what appears:
Each red dot is supposed to represent a star. You may notice some dots not in the sky, so for these you can just erase them using that feature (on the left hand side). It is just like using the brush tool in PS. You can see the additional line of red dots I added manually along the edges. This is something they go over in the tutorial and it basically helps the program stack the stars better.
I did this for both the sky and the reflection of the sky in the water. You then click “Find Sky” (top left), and let it do its work. This was the resulting image:
You can see some areas that aren’t shaded blue, so just use the brush tool on the left and add in areas that are sky and remove areas over land, if necessary.
Once you’ve done that, just hit “Align and Save” and it will save the file as a 16-bit tif file (if that is what you uploaded). It will also save the mask of the sky so you can quickly load that in PS. Here is a look at a single image (of the ten) compared to the final output image (Before is top and after on bottom):
The next step was opening the three photos (one of the sky, two of the foreground) as layers in PS. I auto-aligned the photos and cropped the images as necessary. After blending the two foreground images, this was the result:
I then masked out the sky and used my shot created in Starry Landscape Stacker. This was the result:
I wanted the reflection to be from the same shot as the sky so that it looked right. The foreground shot was taken before the Milky Way rose, so that is why it is not visible in the foreground shots. I masked out the pond as best I could and feathered the edges. I also applied a little Gaussian Blur so that it would blend in on the edges and not just look like some black paint was thrown on the image. This was the result:
This was my first time ever doing something like this, so it took me quite a while to get the water and reflection to look acceptable. After I was done with this I threw the image into Adobe LR and edited the sky.
Everything I did to the sky, I also did to the reflection. I raised the clarity in the sky, increased the contrast, and bumped up the exposure just a touch. I also applied lens correction, which I probably should have done before anything else. I found that using the relatively new “dehaze” feature in LR over the Milky Way helped bring out some more detail.
I hardly used this, just moved it to (+5), but that was all that was needed. I then brought up the exposure a bit on Cathedral Rock (using the brush tool) and did used the dodge and burn technique on the Milky Way. All of this could have been done in PS, but I am more comfortable with LR, so that was my method of attack. This was the resulting image:
About the author: Cory Mottice is a photographer and meteorologist based in Flagstaff, Arizona. You can find more of his work on his website, Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.
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